The heart of MadridThe Puerta del Sol originated as one of the gates in the city wall that encircled medieval Madrid: it got its name from the rising sun which decorated the entrance, as the gate was oriented to the east.Today a busy and vibrant spot at the centre of the city, Puerta del Sol offers a fine range of shops, restaurants and cafés down its side streets, an array of entertainments in the square (the typical street-performer cast of mimes, human statues and magicians vie for tourists' attention) and great opportunities for people-watching throughout.All road lead to Puerta del SolIn front of the Post Office, which serves as the office of the President of Madrid, is a plaque in the pavement marking the starting point of all the roads in Spain: they all radiate out from here like the rays of the sun. Its central and symbolic location has made the square a popular spot for protest and demonstrations in recent years. The square is also home to a famous clock, whose bells sound for the Spanish tradition of the eating of the Twelve Grapes and the beginning of a new year. The New Year's celebrations held in the square has been broadcast live on national TV since 1962. On the east side stands a statue of a bear and a madrone tree (madroño), the heraldic symbol of Madrid; another landmark is the huge neon-lit advertisement for Tío Pepe, a brand of sherry, which has dominated the square since 1936.

Pleasant RetreatParque del Buen Retiro means ‘Park of the Pleasant Retreat,’ and it’s a well-earned moniker. Sat at the edge of Madrid’s city centre, what was originally a zone for royal relaxation has been open to the public since 1767, and provides a wonderful escape from the bustle of the Spanish capital.A retreat was first built here in 1505, to adjoin a new monastery built by Isabella I. Subsequent kings and queens extended and improved the park, adding various other buildings and features, including formal avenues and the great pond Estanque del Retiro. Its improvements in the 1630s by the Count-Duke of Olivares made the park one of the last great wonders of the Spanish Renaissance, and it was the centre of the Habsburg court at a time when Spain was the world’s greatest power.Today Olivares’ artificial pond remains, close to the northern entrance and adjoined by an impressive Monument to King Alfonso XII, which sits atop a semicircular colonnade. Boats are available to hire for a pleasant paddle round the lake.The park contains a number of other renowned statues: a highlight is the 1922 statue of El Angel Caído by Ricardo Bellver, which crowns the Fountain of the Fallen Angel. Inspired by John Milton’s descriptions in Paradise Lost of Lucifer falling from Heaven, this is believed to be the only public statue depicting Satan in the world. He is found in the Rosaleda del Retiro, a wonderful rose garden featuring arched entrances and fountains. Pond and palacesOnly a few of the park’s older buildings are still standing: the Casón del Buen Retiro and Salón de Reinos were the only portions of the Buen Retiro Palace complex to survive the French bombardment of the Peninsular War between 1808 and 1814. Today, the Casón holds collections of 19th and 20th century Spanish paintings.A second artificial pond was built in 1887 along with the Palacio de Cristal, a beautiful construction imitating London’s Crystal Palace and designed to hold an exhibition of indigenous flowers for the Philippine Islands Exhibition - it now contains an art gallery. The Palacio de Velázquez was built for the 1883 National Exhibition of Mining, Metallurgical Arts, Ceramics, Glass and Mineral Waters.Indeed, the park has been host to a number of spectacular events over the years, and continues to hold many concerts and shows to this day; there is also an annual book fair. Popular with runners, roller-bladers and cyclists, the park is also used by many locals as a venue for botellón - a boozy picnic in the evening. This is not strictly allowed, but the authorities tend to turn a blind eye.

His MajestyOverlooking Estanque del Retiro in Buen Retiro Park is the Monument to Alfonso XII. A grand construction of bronze and marble, it features a semicircular colonnade alongside the lake, with several sculptures surrounding a central equestrian statue of the king.It was designed by José Grases Riera, who was the winner of a national competition for the honour in 1902. After Riera died in 1919, the project was continued without modifying his design, and was completed in 1922 - one of many commemorative monuments erected in Spain over the 20th century.Alfonso himself sits 30 metres high, and was cast in bronze in 1904. The stairs down to the lake are flanked by lions and mermaids; Allegorical statues of Peace, Liberty and Progress surround the monument’s base, as well as figures representing the Army, the Navy, the Sciences, the Arts, Agriculture and Industry.

Pacific flowersBuen Retiro Park has a long history as a venue for extravagant exhibitions and shows. In 1887, during the early days of its official ownership by the public, the park played host to an exhibition of the Philippine Islands, which were a Spanish colony at the time.Architect Ricardo Velázquez Bosco - also responsible for the park’s Palacio de Velázquez - created a greenhouse to house indigenous flowers brought over from the Philippines. The exhibition extended into the park, and included a recreation of a Filipino village. Greenhouse to galleryOriginally intended to be disassembled and moved to another site, the Palacio de Cristal has remained here ever since, alongside its accompanying artificial lake, which like Estanque del Retiro is teeming with fish and terrapins, as well as a few black swans. Inspired by London’s Crystal Palace, the building takes the shape of a Greek cross and is made almost entirely of glass set in an iron framework, atop a brick base decorated with ceramics.Colonial exhibitions are a thing of the past. No longer a greenhouse, the Palacio de Cristal is now used as a venue by the Museo Reina Sofia for temporary art exhibitions. A recent show by conceptual artist Kimsooja saw the building transformed into a surreal palace of rainbows using a diffractive covering on the glass. Whether or not there’s anything on, the palace is a wonderful sight, making for excellent photo opportunities in the forested peace and quiet of the park.

The Main SquareJust a few blocks from the Puerta del Sol, this square was built in the early 17th century under the reign of Philip III, whose equestrian statue stands at the centre. It is overlooked largely by three-storey residential buildings, with 237 balconies facing the plaza.It is a grand and symmetrical space, with a distinguished surround of arcaded porticoes. The municipal Casa de la Panadería - supposedly named after the bakery that it replaced - dominates the north side, with painted façades and flanked by a pair of angular towers. A place of the pastToday the plaza is primarily a popular tourist attraction, but in its time it has been used for bullfighting, markets, football matches, public executions and even autos da fé: the tribunals, tortures and burnings of supposed heretics during the years of the Spanish Inquisition.Beneath its porticoes a number of traditional shops and eateries can be found; despite their rather steep prices, they make a great stop for some people-watching, and you can drink local wines as you drink in some history.

A historic square with some fabulous sculptures, located right at the entrance to the Royal Palace.

The Royal Palace of Madrid, or Palacio Real, is the official residence of the Spanish royal family, although it is now used primarily for state ceremonies. Located in the heart of Madrid, the palace stands on the site of a 9th-century Moorish fortress and was rebuilt in the 18th century after a fire destroyed the old Alcázar.  With over 3,400 rooms, it is one of the largest palaces in Europe and showcases a rich blend of Baroque and Neoclassical architecture. Inside, visitors can admire grand staircases, lavishly decorated state rooms, the Royal Armoury, and an impressive collection of paintings, tapestries, and porcelain. Though the royal family resides elsewhere, the palace remains a symbol of Spain’s monarchy and a major cultural and historic landmark.

Best of the best The Museo del Prado is at the centre of Madrid, and features one of the world's finest collections of European art. Expanded from the former Spanish Royal collection, it now comprises around 7,600 paintings, 1,000 sculptures, 4,800 prints and 8,200 drawings, as well as many other works of art and historic documents. Around 1,300 artworks are on display in the main buildings: the crowning glory of the collection is Las Meninas by Velázquez, one of the most acclaimed masterpieces in all art history.  'Prado' comes from the meadow which gave its name to the area, and later to the museum after nationalisation: the grand main building opened in 1819 as the Royal Museum of Paintings and Sculptures. Today, other parts of the collection are also held in the Casón del Buen Retiro and the church of San Jerónimo el Real. Old Masters and more The artistic heritage of Spain is best represented, but there's no shortage of brilliant stuff by Italian and Dutch artists either: highlights include some of the greatest works by Fra Angelico, Goya, Rubens, Titian, Dürer, Raphael, Hieronymus Bosch and Tintoretto. There's so much to see here that it can feel overwhelming. Luckily, the museum has devised three suggested routes - covering 15, 30 and 50 works in one hour, two hours, or three hours respectively - which cover the key works, and are a great option if you're short of time. Otherwise, take a whole day to drink in the delights.

This enigmatic painting is one of the crown jewels of the Prado collection.

Saint Jerome the RoyalThis church began life as a Hieronymite Monastery in the mid 15th century; due to the site's marshy ground, it was moved to a new position to adjoin a growing royal palace, and rebuilt in Isabelline Gothic style. In 1528 it was used for the investiture of the Princes of Asturias and future king Philip II, the beginning of a long royal association. When Philip moved the Spanish court to Madrid, San Jerónimo became part of the Buen Retiro palace complex. It was subsequently largely destroyed during the Napoleonic occupation in 1808 (today, little remains in Buen Retiro Park of the original buildings).Further Isabelline Gothic restoration followed under Queen Isabel II in the mid 19th century; a second restoration followed between 1879 and 1883, and the street-facing stairway was added in 1906 for the occasion of King Alfonso XIII's wedding. Only a few external features remain of the monastery's original structure, and the neo-Gothic 19th century remodelling of the façade remains controversial, but it is an elegant and beautiful place. The church's Baroque cloister was in disrepair for many years, until it was agreed in 2007 that the Prado should have the space. Its inner courtyard facade was dismantled and then rebuilt as a cubic room designed by Rafael Moneo - the red-brick 'Cubo de Moneo' has proved unpopular with many locals. Whatever your own opinion, this extension of the museum holds great temporary exhibitions, as well as some of the Prado's collection of non-Spanish art including works by Titian, Rubens and Veronese.